Record Number of Climbers on Mount McKinley During A Given WeekĪ new all time high of 383 climbers were on the slopes of Mount McKinley for the week of May 20. Eight out of the 44 climbers (18%) attempting Mount Hunter reached the summit.

13 expeditions attempted four routes on Mount Hunter.

Six out of 28 climbers (21%) attempting Mount Foraker reached the summit. A total of 11 expeditions attempted seven different routes.

This season saw a flurry of activity on Mount Foraker.

573 (57%) of those attempting the summit of Mount McKinley were successful.

Had the volcanic ash situation not forced a number of parties to cancel their expedition, 1990 would probably have continued the four-year trend of increasing use.

This was only seven people short of the record of 1009 set in 1989. In 1990, 1002 persons attempted a climb of Mount McKinley. Near Record Number Of Climbers On Mount McKinley Where specifically noted, statistics apply only for Mount McKinley * Additionally, mountaineers are encouraged to remain self-sufficient and conduct their own evacuations whenever possible.Īll statistics in this report are for portions of the Alaska Range within the boundaries of Denali National Park and Preserve. A strong emphasis is placed upon the importance of environmentally sound expeditionary climbing and sanitation techniques. We continue to staff a ranger station in the town of Talkeetna where mountaineers register for their expeditions. The National Park Service conducted four 24-day patrols on Mount McKinley, as well as numerous patrols into other areas of the Alaska Range. This is the lowest number of search and rescue incidents since 1975 when 362 persons registered to climb Mount McKinley. From that medical/rescue camp, the mountaineering rangers contacted mountaineers and coordinated search and rescue activities.ĭespite the near record number of climbers on the mountain, there were only three search and rescue incidents on Mount McKinley in which the National Park Service was involved. In its place, the Park Service mountaineering staff established a camp at the traditional site at 14,300’ on the West Buttress. The Denali Medical Research Project did not operate during the 1990 season. No dropoffs were permitted at this location. In an effort to cope with the number of people still on the mountain, landings to pick up parties were authorized at the 9,500’ level on the Kahiltna Glacier.

Late June snows extended the season longer than was expected, nevertheless, flights into the southeast fork stopped after the first several days of July. Concern over a repeat of the 1986 early closures was well publicized and a number of groups planning late expeditions to the Alaska Range either moved their trips ahead or cancelled altogether. This resulted in an early closure of aircraft landing strips on the glaciers. The dark ash layers, once exposed to radiant heat from the sun, caused greatly accelerated melting of the snow pack as well as uneven melting of the snow surface. A similar scenario occurred in 1986 when Mount Augustine erupted. Throughout most of the winter, Mount Redoubt volcano, located approximately 150 miles south of the Alaska Range, repeatedly erupted, lightly dusting the Alaska Range with multiple layers of volcanic ash. No other winter attempts were made on any other major peak within Denali National Park and Preserve. The 14,300’ basin was their highest camp. They encountered extended periods of poor weather and spent nearly 20 days between the 11,000’ and 14,300’ camps. There was one winter attempt made by a Japanese team of four on the West Buttress. Record snows fell at the lower elevations during the winter of 1989-90. Heavy winter snows, volcanic ash deposits, near record numbers of climbers, few accidents and generally good weather summarizes the 1990 mountaineering season in the Alaska Range.

Colby coombs survival story